Wooo Hooo Cook's Illustrated!!!

[itsjustCarla]

My dad brought me a "Cook's Illustrated" magazine today - it's not dated, so I think it is one of the "sample" issues they send out free in order to get subscriptions...

ANYWAY....in one section, they are rating 13x9-inch pans. While we didn't make their FAVORITE pan, the PC rectangle stoneware baker made it in the RECOMMENDED PANS rating!!!! It was rated their highest of three stars and their comments read:

"The browning, especially on cornbread and gingerbread, was good, and it's OK to cut foods with a knife right in the pan. Did not retain food odors, as might be expected from unglazed ceramic."

It also is careful to list restrictions, i.e. initial seasoning, no cleansers, no direct heat source, no sudden temp. changes, not dishwasher safe, etc.

A lot of well-named bakeware (Wilton, Wearever, Emerilware, All-Clad) were in the NOT RECOMMENDED PANS section.

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

 

[katie0128]

Is there any way you could scan and/or copy the article? I'd love to have a copy.

 

[itsjustCarla]

I'll give it a shot.........

gotta resize it first, it's too big.

 

[MissChef]

I'll give it a shot.........

gotta resize it first, it's too big.

Cool! :thumbup: I'll check back! Thanks!

 

[chefann]

That article was originally published in late 2004 (I think). It was a couple of years ago. I've got the issue at home and can check.

 

[MissChef]

That article was originally published in late 2004 (I think). It was a couple of years ago. I've got the issue at home and can check.

Of course you do!!!
You are so awesome Ann, we just love you!:love: :thumbup:

 

[chefann]

I bought that issue off the newsstand because of the stoneware review. And I was a subscriber when they reviewed grill pans and included our Professional pan.

 

[itsjustCarla]

Hmmmmm.......did this work?



It looks kinda fuzzy....maybe it will print out better??

 

[rebeccastt]

It worked! Thanks for posting.

 

[katie0128]

Of course you do!!!
You are so awesome Ann, we just love you!:love: :thumbup:

And of course she remembers that she not only has it, but when it was originally published as well.
Can you imagine all the seemingly endless and unrelated information that will spill forth if she ever becomes schizophrenic and starts talking to herself?

 

[legacypc46]

And of course she remembers that she not only has it, but when it was originally published as well.
Can you imagine all the seemingly endless and unrelated information that will spill forth if she ever becomes schizophrenic and starts talking to herself?

...I'm getting the mental image (yuk, yuk)...I trust she will be wearing the tropical fruit hat!:balloon:

 

[chefann]

If you don't stop picking on me, I won't tell you that the Cook's Illustrated article was originally in the March/April 2004 issue.

 

[raebates]

Don't let them get to you, Ann. They're just jealous.

 

[chefann]

I know. It's not everyone who has a black hole full of useless knowledge for a brain.

 

[missydivine]

:balloon: What would we do without you Ann:balloon:

 

[ginamkiely]

Ann I may be new here but even i know you sure do know A LOT of stuff... about everything! I can definitely admit i'm a little jealous!

 

[ParishKitchen]

Online membership has its privileges. The ratings page is attached.

EQUIPMENT CORNER
What Makes a Better Baking Pan?

Written: 3/2004


Would our grandparents have spent nearly $100 on a baking pan? Should you?

PDF Download
Baking Pans
For related information, see our reviews of Baguette Baking Pans, Plastic Disposable Baking Pans, Pyrex Serveware.

Here in cake-and-casserole-crazed America, the shallow, rectangular 13 by 9-inch baking dish is a kitchen workhorse. As you might expect, there is a huge variety of options from which to choose, many with new designs, materials, finish colors, and baking surface textures, all taking aim at the tried-and-true pans of old—Pyrex and stoneware. These “improvements,” of course, come at a cost.

Would our grandparents have spent nearly $100 on a baking pan? En route to determining the true value of these pans, we found ourselves knee-deep in cornbread, lasagna, raspberry squares, and gingerbread, all baked in each of 12 pans representing the major designs and materials, both old and new.

Tried-and-True—and New—Designs

Though no longer common, rough stoneware and earthenware pans have been around since the days of communal bread ovens in the village square. Ovensafe glass, represented by the Pyrex brand, came to market in 1915 and in the years since has become a standard kitchen item familiar to almost every home cook.

Pans made from both materials performed well in our tests, browning cornbread deeply and evenly. (We put a high value on the enhanced flavor and texture of deeply browned exterior surfaces. Pans that did not brown well were marked down.) Like a trusty cast-iron skillet, stoneware has a huge capacity to absorb and retain heat. The story is similar for glass. Although it heats up slowly, once glass is hot, it stays that way. In both cases, it’s good news for fans of deeply browned crusts.

Our group included six pans with nonstick surfaces. All but the Wearever (which is also insulated—more on this later) browned cornbread deeply. Previous bakeware tests have shown—and the cornbread baked in this test confirmed—that when it comes to browning, a dark surface color is more important than the material of the pan. Dark-colored surfaces absorb heat in the oven; bright surfaces do, too, but they also reflect it.

The nonstick pans did, however, present a serious practical consideration. Many dishes baked in a 13 by 9-inch pan, including the lasagna we tested, are customarily cut and served right from the pan. With a nonstick pan that’s a problem, because the use and care recommendations usually advise against cutting in the pan to protect the nonstick coating. Though not officially part of this test, some old, poorly cared for pieces of nonstick bakeware brought in from home by several editors were scarred, chipped, and rusted, proving that it pays to follow the manufacturer’s guidelines in this respect. In our view, not being able to cut in a pan is a strike against it.

In the last couple of years, some manufacturers, including Doughmakers and Emerilware, have introduced heavy-gauge aluminum pans with textured baking surfaces that are supposed to increase airflow beneath the baked good to improve browning and release. Although pure aluminum is known to conduct heat efficiently, previous tests of bakeware have shown that this advantage is offset by its shiny surface, which reflects some of the oven’s radiant heat. (The crusts of cornbread baked in these pans were on the light side.) Also, when you grease a textured pan, excess lubricant clings to the ridges, which in our tests caused the bottom of the gingerbread cake to turn soggy. In addition to subpar browning, aluminum pans have another limitation. Manufacturers recommend against preparing acidic foods (such as tomato-based products) in them because acid and aluminum can react, causing off flavors.

The Rolls-Royce of the aluminum group was the All-Clad. Though it was solid as a rock, this wallet-wilting $95 pan didn’t brown cornbread or raspberry squares as well as some of its darker competitors. Yes, it’s nonreactive, and, yes, you can put it under the broiler and use metal utensils with it, but this pan just costs too much for us to recommend it over less expensive alternatives that performed better.

Another design innovation that has surfaced in recent years is insulated bakeware, which incorporates an air layer between two sheets of metal. Although this pan has a dark nonstick finish on the cooking surface, it did a lousy job of browning. Part of the problem was the reflective, shiny exterior surface of the pan. The pan’s main selling point, its insulating air layer, was the second problem. We found that it also prevents baked goods from browning—not a good thing.

The newest and most unexpected design in our group was the Kaiser Backform Noblesse springform, which brings the removable sides of a classic round cheesecake pan to a 13 by 9-inch size. This unique pan had both pros and cons. Removal of baked goods intact couldn’t have been easier, but the seal between the sides and bottom was not tight enough to prevent some lasagna juices from leaking out and burning in the oven.

Coming Full Circle

It turns out that our story ends almost right where it began, with Pyrex. This pan may not be perfect, but it did have five distinct advantages over the newcomers. First, it browned on a par with the dark-colored nonstick pans. Second, it is compatible with metal utensils. Third, it is nonreactive. Fourth, while it’s no stunning beauty, most people we asked were perfectly willing to set it on a dining table at dinnertime, which allows it to pull double duty in sweet and savory baking. Last, it’s inexpensive; only two other pans in the lineup cost less. The stoneware pan offers the same virtues but costs more. Of course, if your baking is usually of the sweet variety and you are willing to forgo cutting foods right in the pan, any of the recommended nonstick models will also serve you well.

 

[ParishKitchen]

BTW, while we're on the topic of CI, here's their take on grill pans. Again, ratings are attached. Enjoy!

EQUIPMENT CORNER
Do Grill Pans Really Grill?
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Written: 1/2006


Is the stovetop grill pan a viable option when outdoor grilling isn't possible?

PDF Download
Rating Nonstick Grill Pans
For related information, see our reviews of Grill Sponges, Traditional Skillets, Celebrity Skillets, Calphalon One, Nonstick Skillets, and Tabletop Grills.

Cooking over live fire imparts more than just flavor. Dishes made on the grill have that smoldering, come-hither look, too: The telltale charred, dark brown lines from the hot grate glorify foods just as neat pinstripes accent the irresistible contours of a sexy Italian sports car.

When inclement weather (or lack of equipment) prohibits use of a grill, many recipe writers recommend the stovetop grill pan as the next best option. Basically a skillet (or sauté pan) with raised ridges splayed across the cooking surface, a grill pan is designed to deliver grill marks similar to those made on an outdoor grill. But while breathless recommendations from cookbook authors and other food writers are all well and good, I couldn't help but wonder: Was there more to cooking in grill pans than mere looks (those beguiling stripes)? Could they really replicate some of the flavor produced on a real grill?

Getting into the Groove(s)
First, I had to narrow the field: Grill pans come in a dizzying array of materials, shapes, and sizes-small and large, square and round, cast iron and aluminum, with stainless steel, enameled, and nonstick surfaces. I purchased representatives of each and embarked on a pretesting marathon that included pounds and pounds of beef, vegetables, and fish. Shape and size turned out to matter much less than material, and it soon became apparent that aluminum was the only way to go. Why? The aluminum pans were lighter and so easier to handle, and they produced more distinct grill marks than their cast-iron counterparts. (Which makes sense, given that aluminum conducts heat more efficiently than cast iron.) What's more, it took just one ultra-sticky round of glazed salmon to make me decide that nonstick aluminum is a better choice than a traditional surface. Scrubbing the sticky, burnt glaze and salmon fat from between each and every ridge was, to put it politely, a major chore with both cast iron and stainless steel. (That said, for a great grill-pan cleaning aid, see related testing.)

The full testing, then, would focus on aluminum, nonstick-coated grill pans. An afternoon of shopping yielded eight models, with prices ranging from $40 to over three times as much. Some had wide ridges and others did not. Surely a few days at the stove would help determine the importance of design differences, not to mention settle my questions about the grill pans' ability to impart grilled flavor.

To gauge how well the pans produced attractive grill marks, I needed to cook something with a fairly uniform surface. Boneless chicken breasts? Eggplant planks? Not quite the uniformity I was looking for. But a trip to the home-improvement store produced exactly what I needed: standard two-by-four pine boards cut into 8-inch lengths. Back in the test kitchen, I opened all the windows, set the ventilation system on overdrive to dissipate the smoke, and spent two days burning grill marks into wood, as colleagues looked on in disbelief. It was an odd notion, but it worked. I ended up with an equitable and permanent memento of each pan's performance. In general, the pans with wider ridges produced wider, deeper grill marks than pans with narrow ridges.

Illustrative as the charred lumber was, I figured I'd better cook some real food, too. Full testing of the eight pans with hamburgers, flank steak, salmon fillets, swordfish steaks, chicken breast cutlets, panini (Italian-style grilled sandwiches), and sliced zucchini taught me a few things about cooking with grill pans.

First, to develop appetizing grill marks, the pan must be preheated. Second, it's best to use a modicum of fat. In my tests, a light coating of oil resulted in nicer stripes than dry food in a dry pan. (Besides, for safety's sake you should not overheat an empty nonstick pan.) Third, cooking foods with wide, flat surfaces will help any grill pan do its best. For instance, broad, flat swordfish steaks developed deeper, more consistent grill marks than salmon fillets, which have naturally uneven surfaces. Likewise, for hamburgers to develop dark, ruddy grill marks, the patties should be formed with perfectly flat surfaces.

All of our winners shared one trait. It wasn't price; the two least expensive models in the lineup -- the $40 Calphalon and the $50 Anolon -- were recommended. It wasn't material, since all the pans were aluminum. It was the design of the ridges. Our favorite pans had wide ridges (5/16 inch or more), which begat wide, substantial grill marks on the food -- resulting in larger areas of caramelization and, thus, flavor. In contrast, pans with the narrowest ridges (3/16 inch or less), the Look and the Scanpan, produced thinner, less-developed marks. What's more, both the Look and the Scanpan performed worse in the sink as well. The valleys between the narrow ridges were tight and required an unwanted extra round of scrubbing and scraping to get clean, even though the surface was nonstick.

Finally, I noticed a fairly consistent correlation between performance and the method used to construct the ridges. There are two basic approaches: Either the ridges are punched into the metal from the bottom, leaving indentations open to the heat source, or the pan is cast from molten metal, meaning that the ridges are formed by the mold (see top photos, page 28). Cast pans have a solid bottom surface, without exposed indentations. In general, the pans with open indentations delivered better grill marks. Why? The interior of each ridge was directly exposed to the heat source, which facilitated heat transfer. (The exception to this rule is the Swiss Diamond, which has a solid bottom surface but was also the heaviest pan in the group.)

Flavor Face-Off
The recommended grill pans had proved their ability to dress a variety of foods for success in dark, even, nicely charred stripes. But did they deliver any advantage in terms of flavor? Happily, yes -- though the grill pans could not caramelize food as efficiently as an outdoor grill and, hence, provided a subtler grill flavor. While our tasters liked the more robust flavor of the steaks and burgers we cooked outside, many tasters actually preferred the more delicate grilled flavor of zucchini cooked in the grill pans.

Are grill pans worth buying? Certainly, they can't replace a real grill. But for wintertime in the Snow Belt (or any time in the "Apartment Belt"), my tests proved that a grill pan can make a practical substitute, especially when you want to "grill" panini and fairly delicate foods such as fish or vegetables. And with its modest $40 price tag, wide ridges, and easily cleaned nonstick surface, our top-rated Calphalon grill pan makes the minor indulgence of a nonessential cookware item seem downright reasonable.

 

[MissChef]

Thanks for posting these Parishkitchen!!:thumbup: I printed these and will take them to my shows for the next few months for sure! Thanks for taking the time to do this for us!:balloon: